Still Walking: On the go with John in San Miguel

Josh climbing the walla, looking like Spiderman! This is right across  the street from
 our B&B, La Jardin de Don Quijote.

The Parroguia at dusk, and on the horizon from the Instituto,

along with mansions on the hillside (top right).  Besides Josh ordering his Picasso hamburger, 

these are a few scenes along our walk on the secret path. 

We’ve been walking nonstop.  Every day to and from the Jardin, and at night to see the Parroguia lit up and the beautiful Christmas lights all about the center of town, mostly blue.  It reminded me of a Christmas I spent with Peace Corps friends Jud and Justin in Istanbul, around the Blue Mosque and St. Sophia's. 

This morning I asked Josh if he needed to do any laundry. "YES! Definitely.  Let's do it."  He put on his new shoes and his leather jacket (he looks so handsome!), and away we went on another little adventure, this time to the lavanderia.  Josh Learned that it's a nice way to get laundry done, by someone else.  Ater we dropped off our big load, I steered Josh along a “secret” path behind the La Aldea neighborhood where our B&B is, strolling past brightly painted houses, murals, and bougainvilla galore. It’s a path less traveled, and therefore more special.

Later, we went to the Saturday market at the Instituto de Allende, the famous art and language school that once brought lots of American expats to San Miguel; it was super-loaded with arts and crafts.  They were beautiful, but as Josh said,  “the stuff’s more expensive here than at the Mercado.”  True! 

"But I have a little surprise for you."  From the backside of the Instituto, behind the great muraled walls, there is a fantastic view of the town, and I guided Josh there for a look. “Awesome!” He took photos of the Parroquia and churches on the horizon, against a crystal clear blue sky, and the mansions on the hillsides.  It’s one of my favorite views of the town.

It’s great to be able to show Josh these kinds of “hidden” treasures behind the beautiful windows, walls and doorways of San Miguel.

On our Saturday walks we also made stops at shoe stores along the way from here to there, this time for me, with Josh very willing. "Your turn," he said thoughtfully. We finally found a pair of black comfy sandals on sale.  Josh was a big help.  We then had a nice lunch at a restaurant up Ancha de San Antonio, but the names of the items on the menu were more interesting than the food itself: named for world-famous artists, musicians and literary icons.  I got a Salvadore Dali and Josh a Picasso, or something like that!

Josh was still ready to keep going but, frankly, my feet and hips were sort of telling me to slow down (hate to admit it).  So I decided to go back to the B&B, and Josh decided to take a walk to the Park (Parque Juarez).  On his own, all by himself! He said he’d be back at the B&B in time to pick up our freshly washed and perfectly folded (which I could never duplicate) laundry.  He did it, and I think was proud of himself for finding his way around on his own.  He had energy to spare this afternoon, and at one point he was literally climbing the walls, like Spiderman. 

By now Josh is familiar with getting from our B&B in La Aldea, between Soledad and Orizaba, into and out of town.  He’s traversed streets named Zacateros, Pila Seca, Umeran, Hildalgo, Mesones, Insurgentes, Relox, Correo and Sollano. 

Tonight, I tell him, we’re going down Zacateros to Canal to Hernandez Marcias. "Why? Where are we going?"  

“Want to see a Beatles tribute band at the Teatre Angela Peralta, if we can get tickets?”  

Josh and I at Tio Lucas before the Beatles tribute concert at the Teatre.

“Yeah that sounds good.”  We had seen a similar concert in Sylvania a year before, the "1964" tribute band, and had fun.

So off we went.  Josh picked up a street dog on the way.  We had no trouble getting tickets, and had time to get a bite to eat at Tio Lucas, a great restaurant across the street from the Teatre.  I think it was one of the best meals we’ve had here.  Josh thought the chicken frajitas were delicious.  So did I.  But I caught Josh wrapping chicken and tortilla in a napkin.

"What are you doing?" 

"Ah, well, I can't help it Nana.  That dog needs food. He's so skinny."  

I understood. Josh went looking for the dog, but it had disappeared.  He finally left the food under a tree, hoping the dog might sniff it and get it. 

Then it was across the street to the Teatre for some Beatles music via what turned out to be a very talented Mexican tribute band calling itself "Sheep Dogs."  The first half was classic Beatles tunes, and the second  featured Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band. The music was great, and the performers extraordinary.  I loved the Ringo Starr on drums best, but the guitars, bassist and keyboards were amazing, especially for the Sgt. Pepper songs. Josh probably got a bit bored, but he was a good sport.  

We walked home happy campers, under a starry sky with a full moon.   We never saw that dog again.

On the Way: Shoes and a Leather Jacket

Josh gets new black suede shoes on the way to the Mercado, via Bellas Artes art school.

SMA at night from the B&B rooftop. A full moon! 

What do you want to do today, Josh?  “Let’s go back to the Mercado.  I want to look for a gift for my dad.”  Okey dokey.  So after our huevo rancheros, off we went to the market, after a stop at my favorite wifi place, Café Mesa Grande.  On the way, Josh spotted a shoe store, and this time we had good luck.  Josh got a new pair of black suede shoes!

“On the way,” I told Josh, is one of the best things about traveling.  You may be headed toward a destination, but “on the way” you’ll discover some great places, see lots of shops, and make lots of stops. It’s okay.  It’s good!  “Yep, it’s how I got my shoes!”

We had good luck at the Artisans Mercado, too.  Josh found something for his dad  (I can only hint that’s it’s made of tin), and then spotted something for Kyle and his mom.  We managed to bargain the vendors down to 50 pesos.  What a deal! 

“Is that okay,” Josh asked  “To talk them down like that.”

“Oh yeah for sure,” I answered.  "In fact, you’re supposed to do that.  It's expected!” 

By now 2:00 pm, Josh was ready for lunch, and so was I.  “You got to make the guacamole,” Josh reminded me.  We had bought the ingredients the day before, fresh avocados, tomatoes and onion. 

A kind of “day 3  travel weariness” set in. "That’s what I call it", I said to Josh, and so we both agreed to taxi back to the B&B instead of walk it!  The guacamole awaited us, and a nap!

But wait! Was our day over?  Far from it.  We look at each other. "We can't just hang around," Josh said.  Jusst what I was thinking! Let's go for another walk, first to Cafe Mesa Grande to check email and facebook, then to the park.  Okay, so on the way..... 

Guess what?  Yep, we stopped in the leather shop, and found.....a beautiful leather jacket made for Josh!  He hesitated, checked with his sister, then decided. His first leather jacket on his first trip to Mexico!

We did make it to the park, which is beautiful, and to a classy part of town, higher up in the mountains.  I remember taking my grandchildren Julia and Tony there, many years ago.  Josh loved it, too.  Another great day in paradise! 

In San Miguel with Grandson Josh

Leonardo mural, Biblioteca, top left.  Josh & me at Hecho en Mexico; Josh, in front of a beautiful carved and painted door on Ancho San Antonio, a main street; at Jardin de Don Quijote,, in his room and on his deck, from which you can see the town;, on the balcony surrounded by red bougainvilla;  at the oldest church; and at the Mercado de Artesenia, bottom right corner.

I woke up this morning and wondered where I was, then it came to me,  oh my god, I’m in San Miguel!”  Josh, my fifteen-year-old grandson, was telling me about how his first day had started as we ate dinner at Hecho En Mexico.

And we are having the best time together.  Josh is a sponge, and he noticed right away, as we traveled from Leon to San Miguel in our shuttle van, that “We aren’t in America anymore.This is definitely Mexico!” he said, as he took in the countryside and the mountains, the towns, the landscape of the dry high desert, the architecture, the roadside stands.   Right away he noticed lots of beat up old cars, still going, a true Mexican talent. What a gift to be traveling with my grandson to a place I know and love!

After a long travel day on Wednesday, 26 December, from Detroit (our flight left at 6am) to Houston to Leon/Guanajuato, Mexico, otherwise uneventful, we got to San Miguel at 5:00 pm, and got settled in our B&B, the Jardin de Don Quijote, as colorful and cheerful as always, the lush garden in full bloom. Josh discovered two cute ducks wandering around the fountain.  We wondered how they got there.  Maria, the owner, and her daughter Alajandria, greeted us warmly, and so did Dona, the revered 90-something nanny and grandma. Josh even managed hola, mucho gusto, and gracias in Spanish.  He charmed the Garcias!

“Want to take a walk into town,” I asked Josh.  He looked at me, eyes half shut. I think he was thinking “Is she serious?” but only said “Sure!”  Tired as he were, Josh decided to stay up a little longer instead of crashing. What a good traveler! 

So we took our first walk into town, to the Jardin, where Josh got his first glimpse of a lively Mexican public square and the famous Parroquia, the beautiful cathedral.  It was a warm and balmy night, with an almost full moon, and the bells of the cathedral tolled as we arrived. We walked around the square and then got a bite to eat at the Café de Jardin, where my sister and I had enjoyed meals and margaritas.  We sat at a table outside where we met Ricardo, an IT worker from southern Mexico on vacation with his wife and two kids. We learned a lot just sitting with him and listening to him talk about Mexico.

Josh is absorbing it all: the language, the culture, the architecture, the cobble-stoned streets, the people, the street life.  He liked his first glimpse of all the little shops where you can buy everything imaginable. We got back to the B&B and crashed.

On day two, after a hearty breakfast served by the Garcia family’s long-time cook Marilou, we took another long walk into and around town.  I decided we’d go to the Biblioteca and the Artisan’s Mercado, to catch more street life, indigenous arts and crafts, and the feeling, sights and sounds of San Miguel’s bustling, joyful daily life. Josh loved it. He liked the David Leonardo mural at the Biblioteca, and especially liked the Mercado, where you can buy everything from Mexican crafted souvenirs, fresh fruits and vegetable, cheese and edible cactus, to homemade toys, and inside, everything from produce to clothes. 

 “Can we go back to the Mercado” he asked at the end of the day.  Sure thing. Anytime. We’re getting into the pace and lifestyle of beautiful San Miguel.  We’re taking it easy, taking it in, and having a ball!