Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Learning about the Crimean Tatars

My friend Barbara Wieser has served as a Peace Corps Volunteer (PCV) in Crimea, Ukraine, for over four years. She's from Minnesota, owned a book store, is a book lover, dedicated environmentalist, and indefatiguable hiker.  She was part of our Ukraine Group 36, which trained, and bonded, in Chernigov. She, Jud and I were a trio, surrounded by lots of dear friends. We walked all over the town; visited the fabulous churches, museums, and historic sites; went for a beer or "debrief" after long sessions on Ukrainian culture; shopped at the markets; and Barb and I did a special literature project at the Chernigov Biblioteca, comparing an American and a Ukrainian author.  After almost 3 months of training, Peace Corps assigned us to our sites all over Ukraine.  I went East, far east; Jud and others went North; Suz and others West; Ilse and Carl South to Odessa and others to various towns and cities in between; and Barb to Crimea.  Most of us are home now, but Barb re-upped after her first two years of working with the Crimean Tatar community in Simferopol.  She's been a trooper, a warrior for peaceful relations.  She's now a citizen of the world.

She is also our teacher about Crimea, the land, geography, the towns, the beauty and culture, and especially the Crimean Tatars  Many of us have visited in her city and at her work site, the Ismail Gasprinsky Crimean Tatar Library, and enjoyed hikes and excursions around Crimea.  I had a memorable trip from Simferopol to Bachysaray,  Yevpretoria, and Yalta  on the Black Sea (famous site of the World War II conference between Roosevelt, Stalin, and Churchill). Breathtakingly beautiful, and so rich in history.  Barb has hiked the mountains and forests, and explored every nook and cranny.

She has become an important part of the Tatar community, developing strong friendships and relationships, helping computerize and modernize the library, increasing its outreach, learning the people's history and struggles, and supporting their contemporary role in rebuilding the community from which they were once forcibly exiled by Stalin. The Tatar people have returned to Crimea, their homeland, after more than 30 years.  It's a harrowing story, of a community brutally demolished, lives shattered, families separated.  It's also a story of courage, the persistence of traditions, and achievement against the odds. The struggle continues.

So many of us have learned about this story of forced exile and return through Barb, and about the Gasprinsky Library, where she has made enormous contributions. The Library's goal is to preserve the memorabilia, artifacts, newspapers, traditions and stories of the Crimean Tatar people, to keep the memories alive, to remember the past so as to shape the future.   Barb has wholeheartedly shared and advanced this goal.

Below is one of her many blogs about the Library, this one focused on its founder, Ismail Gasprinsky, a brilliant and thoughtful man ahead of his times, as Barb tells us.  He reminds me of the Islamic poet Rumi, a man of depth, a source of wisdom.  I was moved by his life and purpose when I visited the Library.  I hope you will be, too.

 

TUESDAY, APRIL 9, 2013


Ismail Gasprinskiy--a feminist



Ismail Gasprinskiy in his office in Bakchiseray.

Recently, as they do every year, the library celebrated the anniversary of the birth of Ismail Gasprinskiy (March 21, 1851). The day began with a ceremony of tributes at the Gasprinskiy monument located on the Salgir River in the center of Simferopol. A two-hour seminar on Gasprinskiy’s life and work was held at the Franco Library, and on the following day, a celebration was held in the nearby city of Bakchiseray, where Gasprinskiy lived for most of his life and where he is buried.

The festivities made me think once again about this remarkable man and how so little is known of him in the western world. And perhaps because I am currently showing the recent PBS special on the history of the American women’s movement to students at the Window on America Center in Simferopol, I also thought about Gasprinskiy’s views on women and how he truly is someone we would call a “feminist.” 

At a time when women were almost universally seen as inferior to men, particularly in the Muslim world, Gasprinskiy had the courage to speak out, demanding to be heard on the importance of changing the attitude towards and treatment of women. In the pages of his newspaper Terdjiman which he published from 1887 until his death in 1914, Gasprinskiy criticized the practice of polygamy and arranged marriages and divorce being a prerogative for men only. Edward Lazzerini, the foremost western scholar on Ismail Gasprinskiy, writes that “Gasprinskii insisted that ‘evolution in the marriage laws’ had become a necessity” and Gasprinskii felt that “what was needed…was a regularization of the laws so that men would no longer be able to repudiate their wives arbitrarily, and women would be permitted to divorce their husband for just cause.”

His own marriage to Bibi-Zuhre hanim Akchurina seemed to have been a partnership in the modern sense: “the union of two determined young people who valued the role education could play in the enlightenment of the Muslims of the Russian empire and who were ready to dedicate their energies to achieve this goal,” writes Azade-Ayse Rorlich, translator and editor of the only book of Gasprinskiy’s writings available in English.  Zuhre hanim played a vital role in the publication of Ismail Gasprinskiy’s renowned newspaper, Terdjiman, according to Rorlich:   “Even though her name did not appear in the paper… Terjuman would have neither become a reality, nor endured, had it not been for the material and moral support of his wife Zuhre, as well as for her very real contribution to running the paper.”

Perhaps what Gasprinskiy is most known for is his belief in the importance of the education of Muslim women. In his words: “Whoever loves his own people and wishes it a great future, must concern himself with the enlightenment and education for women, restore freedom and independence to them, and give wide scope to the development of their mind and capabilities.”

He was quick to publicize any evidence of attempts to improve education for Muslim women, such as the opening of schools especially for girls. In Bakchiseray, his sister opened the first school for girls of the new method schools (Gasprinskiy’s modernization of Muslim education which was widespread across the Russian empire). With his daughter Sefika, Gasprinskiy started the first magazine devoted to Muslim women. And in his fiction writings, he often created strong women characters that embodied his ideas of modern women, in the belief that his writings would “inspire the real-life Muslim woman to utilize fully her capabilities as a human being, and real-life Muslim society to permit her the opportunity to do so.” (Lazzerini)

It was in such writing that I came to see how well Gasprinskiy understood the role of society in keeping women oppressed. French and American Letters, the only collection of Gasprinskiy’s writings available in an English translation, are excerpts from a fictional travelogue that he serialized in Terdjiman. It follows the adventures of a Muslim man from Central Asia and his travels to France and Africa, and at least some of the writing is loosely based on Gasprinskiy’s own life.

But the last letters are pure fantasy and recount his and his travelling companions’ capture by a band of “Amazons” in Africa. In this Amazon society, gender roles are reversed—men are sexual slaves, women are rulers and warriors. There is much discussion among the men about this reversal of roles and titillating humor when one of the captured men is summoned into the “harem” of the Amazon sultana. In the end, the men escape but not before doing fierce battle with the Amazons. Gasprinskiy writes:
“The amazons flew toward our improvised fortification with extraordinary speed and courage…the Frenchmen…marveled at the spirit and courage of these desert riders.  The life and courage of these amazons… clearly proved that education and world views could endow women with much courage, strength, and fortitude…It became clear that in other countries women were fearful, weak, had a delicate nature, frail nerves and no will of their own, not because that is how it should be, but because their education, world view, and those life conditions which had shaped them over time, had made them what they were. “

Truly, Ismail Gasprinskiy was a man far ahead of his time. His radical view that women are equal to men and it is society that is holding them back would resonate today and earn him the label of “feminist.”

The information for this blog post came from these sources:
Gasprali, Ismail. French and African Letters, Annotated Translation and Introduction by Azade-Ayse Rorlich, Istanbul: The Isis Press. 2008
Lazzerini, Edward. “Ismail Bey Gasprinskii and Muslim Modernism in Russia, 1871-1914,” unpublished dissertation, University of Washington, 1973.
Fisher, Alan. "A Model Leader for Asia. Ismail Gaspirali."  In The Tatars of Crimea: Return to the Homeland, ed. Edward A. Allworth, Duke University Press, 1998.

Note: There are many different spellings of Gasprinskiy, based on the translation of the original language—T

Friday, March 22, 2013

Fort Meigs and Ohio History


“Fort Meigs is a War of 1812 battlefield located in Perrysburg, Ohio. A reconstructed fort and museum help bring history alive. Fort Meigs is one of fifty-eight sites within the Ohio Historical Society, now managed by the Fort Meigs nonprofit organization. Along with school tours and interactive displays, a number of reenactments and special events take place here throughout the summer. Dedicated staff and volunteers allow Fort Meigs to bring fun and education to hundreds of visitors each year.”    www.fortmeigs.org

Bob Smith, board president, Sylvania Area Historical Society (lower right)
 introduces Rick Finch, director of Fort Meigs,at March 20 SAHS program. 
"It is observed by all the officers that I have had any conversation with who have been a long time in the service, some of them in the Revolutionary War, that this is the most disagreeable encampment they ever saw,"  wrote Lt. Joseph Larwill in his journal in March 1812, describing the building of the huge Fort Meigs site in Northwest Ohio. Hard to believe it could be worse than a Revolutionary War encampment, when we think of General George Washington and his troops! 

Rick Finch, director of the Fort Meigs historic site and museum, shared journal entries of soldiers and war veterans during a program about the War of 1812 at the Sylvania Area Historical Society (SAHS). Fort Meigs witnessed some terrifying encounters with the British and their Indian allies. The American soldiers at Fort Meigs  were a super-hearty bunch. "These guys had no coverage but thin canvas tents," Finch said about a winter campaign.  "They were huddled six to a tent in freezing weather."   At another point Finch told how the soldiers had to hike through mud and swamp lands up to their knees, inch by inch, and how they fought side by side in forests and unfamiliar territory without enough supplies or reinforcements. 

   
Finch presented an interesting history of the building, and re-building, of the Fort, a strategic site on the Maumee river and important battleground in the War's "western theater."  He spoke about the reasons for and the geography of the War, which few Americans know much about, and the military battles, which were fiercely fought and resulted in much hardship and many deaths. 

The War of 1812 was a 32-month military conflict between the US and the British Empire and their Indian Allies.  The Indians were led by Shawnee confederation leader Tecumseh, who sided with the British in hopes of building an independent Indian nation.  Americans at the time thought of the War of 1812 as a “Second War of Independence” against the British, and perhaps that was its greatest outcome.  America had asserted its autonomy, seizures of American sailors and goods stopped (as Europe became engulfed in the Napoleonic War), and an "Era of Good Feeling" followed. Otherwise the War of 1812, in spite of its brutality and devastation, including the burning of Washington, the new capitol, ended with a stalemate and no changes in territory.  It pretty much settled the American border with Canada as well. 

It did have another important outcome for the nation, and for our region, however, Finch concluded: “It opened the Northwest territory, the Great Lakes region and the  Midwest, to further settlement and growth.”  
Romanticized painting of  Tecumseh,
 leader of  Shawnee confederacy, by Benson Lossing,
 based on a pencil sketch by Pierre le Dru (wikiiphoto)..

America’s relentless westward march to the Pacific continued throughout the 19th century, through the Civil War and beyond, and with it the destruction of Native Americans,  who were forced off their lands and pushed ever-Westward or onto reservations. Fort Meigs helped clear the way West for the expanding new nation.  Among the biggest losers were not the British, but the Native peoples of North America.  Tecumseh was killed during the War, in 1813. His death marked the end of the dream for uniting and saving his people.  
American  history encompasses a complex process of evolution and change, war and peace, achievements and disappointments. It takes place on many levels: political, military, economic, social and cultural.  It includes the diverse stories of natives and newcomers, migrants and immigrants over time.  It begins with our local histories and our family stories, woven piece by piece into the fabric of the common narrative we all share. Rick Finch reminded us that Fort Meigs and the history of Ohio is an important chapter in this narrative.    

Fort Meigs is commemorating its 200th anniversary this year (1813-2013) with lots of programs and special events. Site descriptions note that "Ohio's War of 1812 battlefield is home to the largest reconstructed, wooden-walled fort in the country." It also has a great bookstore, full of books and information on Ohio history.  See you there!

For more information about Fort Meigs go to www.fortmeigs.org.  For more information about the Sylvania Area Historical Society go to www.sylvaniahistory.org. Join the SAHS and learn about YOUR history! 

Friday, February 1, 2013

A Library Computerized, a community empowered

Photo from PCV Sara Cooper, Starobelsk, UA
I just participated, via Skype, in the Starobelsk Library's grand celebration of getting computers from the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation's Bibliomist project.  It was wonderful to see the library filled with friends and people from the community. A special day. I  was asked to say a few words.  Friends were waving joyously in the background.  Vera Flyat, my counterpart at the human rights NGO Victoria, poked her head in and blew kisses. People were giving the "thumbs up" sign.  I said a few words, as I was asked to do. "Ето мечта поняль. This is a dream come true!"

As I wrote in my last blog, we started in the fall of 2009, creating the library's first English club and English-language  book collection, and step by step applied to Bibliomist for the computers.  Anyone who's applied for grants from large foundations knows this is a challenging process.  Peace Corps Volunteers who came after me, Amy and Sara, moved the project along.  Amy said it took about 5 attempts.  I am so proud that the Library, director Iryna Andreenov, and friends of the library kept at it.

Now almost 4 years later, the Starobelsk Public Library has computers and online access to a whole new world of knowledge, communications and connections. . It has WiFi; it's wired!  "It shows we can work together and make good things happen.  Never give up!"  The audience cheered.

What a a huge difference this achievement will make to the library and the entire community it serves.  Natalia Dohadailo, my dear friend, English teacher and interpreter, said that already more people are using the Library and the computers are very popular.  Peace Corps makes a difference.  A library computerized.  A community empowered! .
Lugansk oblast, far-eastern UA 

The  "rayon" area of small towns and rural villages
 around  Starobelsk in far-eastern Ukraine
(Lugansk oblast) served by the Starobelsk Biblioteca.











Ukraine in white, Eastern Europe,
on Russain border

 .

  

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Last Days in San Miguel

JOSH'S SAN MIGUEL
Photos taken from his iphone: the Parroguia (top left) and other churches;  me at the Mercado; street scene; the inside of Teatre Peralta with SheepDog, the Beatles tribute band, on stage; and SMA at night.

January 1, 2013 Tuesday
“It’s our last day,” Josh said this morning. 
“Yep, and we have only 200 pesos left!”
“I think we managed our money pretty well.”
“I think so too.  We’re down to our last penny.  Well, our last 200 pesos!”

We walked and talked.  Took a route we hadn’t taken before. Went to town.  Had supper at a nice Italian restaurant, lots of food and a good pistachio gelato. 

“Should we take one last walk into town,” Josh asked.  “Sure!"  I was glad he suggested it.

I checked my email and Josh checked out some songs from an old video game that he kept remembering.  “You know how some songs from the past just come into your head, and won’t go away?”

“Yes, I do,” I replied.  “That happens to me a lot.  Like I’m singing Imagine with John Lennon.  In fact, I’d like that song played at my funeral.  That and Let it Be.  
                                                                                         
“NANA! How did you go there?” 
“Oh I don’t know. It happens, like a song popping up in your head.”

“Okay,” Josh says.  “Now I’m noticing the details of the architecture.  And that tin sculpture of Don Quijote.”   We were at the hotel across from the Parroquia.

“Right, I want to take a photo of you with Don Quijote, in his new year’s mask, and his partner Sancho Panza.”  

Josh was amenable.  I tried to tell him a little about Cervantes’ famous novel, about the idealistic chivalrous knight and his partner, a simple farmer, fighting evil.  It’s a bit of a “Star Wars” story, I told him.    

I’m not sure he got it, but so what? I’ll give it  to him again, at some point.  It’ll have more meaning.  

Meanwhile, the most important thing is being together in San Miguel: showing him the traveler side of his Nana, enjoying Josh and his emerging travel personna, winding up a fabulous trip, and  making lifelong memories! 

We're packing it up.  Adios, San Miguel! Hasta luegol.  Regresaremos!

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Waiting for Josh: A travel lesson, again




We are home from San Miguel, safe and sound in Sylvania, with some great new memories.  Now I can tell this story.  I wrote it last Sunday, about a moment of anxiety, well, for a few hours. This is what happened, and how I felt then:
Josh at B&B Don Quixote.

Josh decided to walk back to the B&B from Starbucks at the Jardin, and he’s been gone over an hour.  I’m here to get online, check email, finish writing and posting another blog, and I’m taking too long. “I want to go back to the B&B,” Josh said.   “I’m almost done,” I responded, “and it’s a winding road.”    

“I know where I’m going,” he insisted. 

“Are you sure? Go down to Zacateros and to San Antonio and you’ll recognize the landmarks, right?”

“Yeah, right, I know Nana.  Trust me.  I know where I’m going.”

Hmm.  I want to trust him.  But now I’m getting a bit nervous.  The young Mexican man across the table from me notices it.  He saw Josh take off, and overheard our conversation I guess, and understood and spoke English fluently, as it happens.

“It’s hard to get lost in San Miguel,” he said, smiling. 

“So you can see I’m wondering where my grandson is!”

"Yes,” he said.  We chatted. He’s from Mexico City and his family has always spent Christmas in San Miguel. He goes to the University of California at Santa Cruz, and loves it.  “Not cheap, but beautiful! I love America.”

“Where are you from,” he asked.

“Ohio, Toledo, Ohio.” 

“Oh, I like Ohio. I visited Fostoria once!”

So we had a lovely chat.  But I decided to pack it up and look for Josh around Starbucks and the Jardin.

I’m back at Starbucks.  Waiting.   I’m thinking: I gave him 20 pesos when he left here, but I should have given him 30 pesos, so he could always hop in a taxi and find his way.

 A basic instinct for reassurance surfaces.   

I look out the window of Starbucks.  The Jardin is crowded, a typical Sunday, even more so because tomorrow night is New Year’s Eve. It’s hopping. It’s sunny, warm and bright out, and everyone is enjoying the day. Josh can’t be lost.     

I decide to go to the police and see if they can check the B&B.  They don’t speak English.  Told me to go next door to the Tourist center.  I did, and they called Maria, the owner of the Don Quijote B&B; she  went to check on Josh.  Yep, sure enough, he was there, playing games on his iphone. She put Josh on the phone.

“Josh!  I thought you were coming back to Starbuck’s.  I’ve been waiting 2 hours for you.”

I wonder where my Nana is.
“Nana, I never said that.  I’m here waiting for you!”

Got it.  Lesson learned, again: you can’t be too explicit or clear about meeting arrangements.  How many times do I have to learn this? And actually the young Mexican man was right: it’s hard to get lost in San Miguel!   

Feliz Ano Nuevo from San Miguel



December 31, 2012
"What's on today?"
"Errands. Then tonight, New Year's Eve in the Jardin." 
"Sounds good. Vamos! Let's go."

So on the last day of 2012, Josh and I ran around doing errands in town.  We confirmed the shuttle back to Leon airport for the 2nd;  changed dollars for peso (at 12.50 peso to the dollar, a good deal);  went to the pharmacy for some Tendra, which relaxes the stomach (no big deal or anything); stopped at Mesa Grande wifi café to check email (and were gently reminded by the owner, who knows me well, that we had left the restaurant last time without paying).  

We walked to the park (above), where young kids played on swings, young men  played soccer or basketball, and a man went along a path walking seven dogs (Josh counted them!).  I noticed the murals and the flowers.  On the way back to the B&B for a little siesta, we stopped for lunch at a favorite outdoor street restaurant (under the yellow tent, Josh on his iphone waiting for his salad).  A women, Judi, whom we had met earlier at the Mercado (with her husband Michael, both from Oregon) saw us and joined us.  That happens a lot in San Miguel.  Josh is a delightful conversationalist, and we chatted about anything and everything, including that she was a pilot at one time, and now they are thinking of moving to San Miguel fulltime. 

Every day is an adventure, exploring new streets, scenes, and senses.


New Year's Eve in the Jardin was no exception. We headed there around 7pm to join a boisterous crowd.  The Christmas lights seemed  multiplied and magnified, the Parroquia glowed in heavenly light, the balloons and sparklers added to the festive spirit.  We didn’t make it to 12:00 midnight, but we did wait for the opening of a  Mexican rock and roll band.     

As we waited and people-watched, after dinner at a pretty restaurant, Josh regaled me with his incredible knowledge of the “Star Wars” series.  He knows every detail, the story, the characters, the lines, the meaning of the fight between good and evil, the complexities and intricacies of the productions.  He loves talking about it, and I love listening to him.  He calls himself a “Star Wars nerd!”   Honestly, his knowledge, insight and understanding is amazing.  He says the lines with passion, drama.  He treasures the three books he has on the series, and he can’t wait for a new series to begin, "sometime in 2015" he informed me.   He speculates what the sequel could be.  He’ll be 18 then! I think he’ll be the first in line to see that movie when it comes out.     

How thrilling to be in San Miguel with Josh on New Year's eve. What a wonderful time we had.  Memorable. What gratitude filled my heart.  Being with Josh on the dawn of 2013 was the best New Year’s ever! 

And the fireworks? Oh, right.  We were in bed when it hit 12 midnight.  Then I heard the boom, boom, boom.  The fireworks filled the night sky, from the Parroquia, around the hills, everywhere. The church bells pealed, joyously, on and on. I ran up to Josh' bedroom to get to our  rooftop deck, calling to a soundly sleeping Josh on the way.  It was glorious, and Josh finally did stir to join me for most of them.  Best view in town. Thrilling!  


(sometimes I think I'm wearing Josh out!).

A Peace Corps Success Story: Good News from Starobelsk, Ukraine

Photos of Starobelsk English Club
Does Peace Corps make a difference in the communities it serves? Here's one success story.  One of many.

I just received this good news from Starobelsk, where I served as a Peace Corps Volunteer for two years, 2009-11: the Starobelsk Public Library has received 15 computers from the Bibliomist project.  At last.  Hurray. Ура! What fantastic news!

Bibliomist is a Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation project, managed by IREX, to computerize 1000 Ukrainian libraries. 

We started the process in Starobelsk in the fall of 2009.  That's when I read about the project online and immediately got information to share with the local public Library. The Library was skeptical at first. Some of you remember my blogging about it.  

How, I wondered, could I work with the Library to help it improve its services and grow into a 21st-century community resource?  How could we help make this Library a center of information, change and civic education?  

My models were our fantastic American libraries, but most Ukrainian libraries, especially in small towns and in the east, were far from that model.  Very far.  Most didn’t have computers; used old card catalogue systems; did not encourage borrowing; did little community outreach. 

The USAID “Windows on America” project helped Oblast (county)-wide libraries, and I remember how important it was to the Chernigov Biblioteca when I trained there.  I tried to get "Windows on America" for Starobelsk, appealed and begged, but the library is not county-wide and I couldn’t convince USAID to make an exception. 

So I began to position the Library to apply for the Bibliomist project, with the ultimate goal of getting 15 computers, support for internet connectivity, and computer training for the librarians.  It was a step-by-step process, not easy. The interpretive services of Natalia Dohadailo, who teaches English at the local university, were essential. We also had help from Anton the poet, whose mother was a librarian and friend of the director.

First I started an English Club; that took many cups of tea, patience, and perseverance.  Then, with a Peace Corps Partnership grant, and help from Toledo donors and many of you, we began an English-language book collection, another first for the Library.  Then we made an initial application to Bibliomist and learned we had to 1) begin with preparing the library for computer installation (modern wiring, sprinkler system, security), and 2) apply to Bibliomist for small community outreach grants. 

I raised funds ($800) from friends in the US for computer installation preparation, essential but not the most exciting part of the project.  With help from Marat Kurachevsky at Peace Corps headquarters and Bibliomist staff, the Library received a $2,500 grant to reach out to teachers and develop a "sister" partnership with an American library, the Boyd County Public Library in Kentucky.  Amanda Stein, the outreach coordinator, helped make that possible.  

The Library learned as it went. It didn’t know how to partner with the American library and of course had trouble with outreach and access.  Still, when I left, the Library was better positioned to get 15 computers. I was also hoping it would get a PCV to move it forward. On the other hand, I wasn’t sure it would happen.  

Then I got the news: the Starobelsk Public Library does, indeed, have 15 computers!  The Library and community will celebrate on 1 February 2013.  I hope I can Skype in and join the celebration.   

Peace Corps Volunteers often wonder whether or not they make a difference.  I wondered the same thing.  Now I can say my work did make a difference.  I left a small legacy in a village in far-eastern Ukraine. Not alone, of course, but in partnership with Starobelsk's concerned citizens and friends.  Together we helped “e-power” the library so it could in turn empower the community it serves.   

Peace Corps does makes a difference, one community at a time, from the bottom up, all over the world!